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FAQs - Wooden Flooring

We are planning to fit wood flooring in our new extension. At what stage of the project should we install the wooden flooring?

If at all possible the wood flooring should be considered like carpet, and it should be one of the last stages of the project. Hence do the painting and of course ensure that all wet trades are completed and fully dried out, and ensure concrete screeds are dried to zero or at one to two %moisture.If the wooden flooring is structural and forms part of the sub floor and has to go down earlier in the process, then use protective covering to minimise any damage. Add architrave, skirting board or perimeter trims as the last stage

Why do you advise NOT to float a Solid Wood Floor?

  • 1.It is standard within the Industry to NOT float solid wood floors.
  • 2. Engineered wood floors are more dimensionally stable, meaning they don’t expand / contract as much, because they have less oak.Plus also they are made up of multiple layers, which run in opposite directions.
  • 3. Engineered wood flooring becomes like one piece of wood when it is glued for floating.
  • 4. A solid if fitted the same way would also become like one piece of wood.As a huge piece of wood it could expand hugely. When solid is bonded (glue down or nailed down) to the subfloor then each individual piece is allowed to move subtly.

Please could you recommend what type of cleaning product should I use on the Campania oak brushed & oiled?

A floor cleaner which is suitable for oiled floors would be Bona care & cleaning system, this is a good ready mixed system. The Dr Schutz cleaner, for oiled wood floors, is also for regular use and is diluted in warm water. For a more intense clean we suggest you use Osmo liquid wax cleaner.

Our flooring is being laid in the hall (on top offloor boards), in the dining room (on top of floor boards), and in the kitchen(on top of concrete), all these rooms lead onto each other. Is it advisable to put threshold strips in the doorways as I thought it would spoil the continuous look? Also do I need to lay the whole area of flooring onto adhesive (i.e. floor boards and concrete)? Regarding the existing floor boards should I put any type of underlay down first? Lastly should I prime the concrete floor so the adhesive will stick to it?

As a solid wood floor it needs to be fixed to the sub floor and not floated.

Hence on the floorboards you could secret nail, but the kitchen would need to be glue down.

If there is no moisture in the concrete then there is no need to prime, the glue will stick direct to the concrete. In fact it is a bad idea to prime with PVA or any other primer - only consider the Sika MB Primer, which is designed to work with the Sika adhesive, if you want to protect against damp or if there is moisture in the concrete.

If you want to run straight through without thresholds then we would suggest using the adhesive throughout - this would allow the floors to all move the same and avoid any floor squeak on the nails.Without the cost of the threshold bars this would still work out more expensive, but it would be safer.

Please advise the best way of fixing engineered wood flooring planks to a new floor construction with under floor heating?

Assuming this is a wet pipe system embedded in a concrete screed, the best method would be to use a Sikabond T54 adhesive in a full contact installation where the adhesive is spread directly onto the concrete with a notched trowel.

Be aware though that, depending on site conditions and thickness of the screed, it can take up to three months (typically) for the moisture level in the screed to fall to the required 1 or 2% or 4% maximum before installation can take place. The Sika MB Primer product can be used to bring this period of time down to one and a half months.

Also, follow the underfloor heating manufacturer's commissioning instructions to the letter - normally the heating system temperature must be raised slowly over a period of time.

Please could you explain the difference between solid wood, engineered wood and solid engineered wood flooring?

Floating a floor means laying the engineered board onto an underlay with either a click system or PVA glue on the T & G of the floorboard. The PVA wood glue is applied just to the four T&G edges of the board, not the underside.

Solid wood is a single plank, of say oak, which might be 20mm thick solid wood.

An engineered board has a layer of oak on top of a 3 ply or multiply base. Some of these boards can be very thin veneers of 1mm to 1.5mm, but we offer one value product at 2.5mm. Our other products are all between 3.0/3.5mm to 4mm right up to the 21mm thick solidengineered boards that have a 6mm top layer of wood. There are advantages and disadvantages to each. Please call to discuss your installation requirements or see the website.

I should also like to know how laminate wood floors are constructed, and what does a floating floor mean?

Laminate flooring is a picture of wood laminated onto a base with a clear protective layer on top - we only do the better quality laminate of Quickstep and Krono, which both come with long guarantees.

There is wealth of information in our wood floor info centre, please see below:


I'm having my garage converted to a room. The floor is concrete. I’d like to install Brittany oak lacquered. It's 2.9m x 5.2m so looks like I need 6 packs. Being a garage, it's a rectangular room with 1 door. Can you let me know what fittings etc.I will need?

I am assuming that the concrete on the floor is dry and not fresh concrete - ideally less than 5% moisture content in the floor?

There are two options for fitting; float it onto underlay or glue down with Sikabond adhesive.

You would leave an expansion gap 10-15 mm around outside covered with skirting board. Solid oak 150mm costs œ7.41 per metre +VAT.

The underlay would be best to include a dpm layer such as the Protech 1000 at œ19.95 for a 10m2 roll.

You may need a door threshold strip at the doorway; although I am guessing that the outside door is probably raised above floor level so this may not be necessary.

If you go for the glue down option you would need Sikabond T54, at œ69.99 +VAT, for a tub that should do 16m2.

I will soon be laying approx. 45 sq. metres of 20mm solid oak flooring (tongue and groove), half will be laid onto existing floor boards and nailed and the other half will be laid onto a concrete floor. Please could you recommend a suitable underlay for the existing floor boards and also please give me advice for laying the flooring onto the concrete (i.e. underlay / adhesive)?

If the flooring is one room and running across the floorboards and the concrete then we would recommend using a glue down method for both. The reason is that as the flooring over the concrete reaches the nailed down section, then it would be as if it was meeting a solid wall but without an expansion gap.

Secret nailing is fine on the floorboards, slight risk of floor squeak if the floor moves on the nails but this is the most cost effective method. If it is uneven then you could double up and use some beads of Sika T53 or T52 adhesive as well.

We do not recommend floating a solid wood floor. Gluing down to the concrete is best, but you need to get a moisture meter to ensure that there is no moisture in the concrete; otherwise you would have to use a liquid DPM first.

The other option would be to use X Pro tack underlay, which is an adhesive coated underlay, on the top surface - it has a peeled back top sheet. You need to position the wood on top and then peel the top sheet from underneath the board. Some trade guys’ love this product, but we feel that although it is great once you get used to it we would not recommend it to the DIY-er.

If I understand matters correctly, I should lay a damp proof membrane on to the existing floor followed by a self-adhesive underlay, which I believe would do away with using glue or nails. Is that correct?

If there is no moisture in the concrete then you could glue the wood down with Sikabond adhesive

If there is a little moisture, or risk of this, then you would need to use a liquid DPM with the glue or the X pro tack underlay.

Can you supply the glue rolls in small quantities?

Iam sorry but we are unable to split the rolls so you would need to buy a 10m2 roll


What kind of moisture levels can we expect from flooring supplied by Sourcewood Floors?

It is generally 7-10% and this is really the industry standard. A piece of bone dry wood would only take up moisture in the room and eventually find equilibrium with the room.

When would my wood ordered be delivered if I order today?

Most wood flooring is available ex stock in about 3 days from order; sometimes we can do it quicker.

If there is a convenient day(s) that suits you better, then we would always try and accommodate this, and we will let you know the delivery day in advance.It is Sourcewoodfloors practice to make contact with the client prior to despatching wood flooring orders.

Is Tuscan solid oak lacquered 90 suitable for underfloor heating (Carbonwarm)?

No, we would not recommend any solid wood floor be used with any form of underfloor heating as it is liable to expand and contract excessively. We would suggest you look at our engineered wood flooring ranges or solidengineered ranges which are much more dimensionally stable.



Tips for Cleaning Your Hardwood Floors please?

Simple but Effective Tips for Cleaning Your Hardwood Floors

Hardwood is one of the best materials for home flooring because of its elegance, beauty and durability. Homes with hardwood floors are often considered to have class and style that definitely create an impression of refinement and even affluence. Because of this a lot of people think that cleaning and maintaining hardwood floors is acomplicated matter. A lot of homeowners are afraid to touch their hardwood floors, fearing that they might cause damage on these classic beauties.

The opposite is actually true with hardwood floors as they are among the easiest floors to clean and maintain. While it is true that they can be more vulnerable to scratches and damages when compared to granite and marble, hardwood floors are actually very sturdy, being able to last for generations with proper care. Cleaning hardwood floors should not really be a difficult task to do if you know simple steps on caring for them.

Here are some tips for cleaning, and maintaining hardwood floors. The supplies and materials needed for cleaning are actually quite simple. The basic knowledge you should know about proper hardwood floor care is not really that complicated.

1. Maintain the hardwood floor’s cleanliness by sweeping it regularly with a broom with fine bristles.

2. Vacuum the floor at least twice every week to eliminate sand and dirt that may cause scratching. To avoid damage, use the vacuum cleaner’s soft brush nozzle.

3. Water is among your hardwood floor’s worst foes. Eliminate water and moisture as soon as you spot them. Wipe accidental spillage with soft dry cloth or chamois to dry the floor very well.

4. When mopping hardwood floors, use a dry mop dampened very lightly with clean water. If the mop is too wet, it can cause damage to the floor.

5. To prevent damage caused by footwear, put carpet runners on the hardwood-floored areas that often get high traffic.

6. Runners and rugs should be vacuumed regularly to eliminate dirt and sand that may go through the weave and may scratch the wood beneath.

7. Avoid wearing shoes with hard soles or pointy heels when walking on hardwood floors;, they may cause dents and bumps.

8. By no means should you drag your furniture or heavy objects across the floor’s surface. If you need to transfer a heavy fixture from one place to another, clean the floor first of sand and dust, then place furniture pads under the piece being moved so that it can easily slide without scratching the floor.

9. Put floor mats by every entrance to clean shoes before stepping in the house.

10. Ask your floor manufacturer for their recommendations on how to treat dents and scratches on hardwood floors. Contact manufacturer if there is damage caused by water.

11. Install furniture pads underneath chairs, tables, closets, dressers and other pieces of furniture that can be moved. This way you can easily slide them when cleaning the floor.

12. Ask your floor manufacture for their recommendations regarding the waxing or buffing requirements of the floor. Specific types of hardwood floors need specific care.

13. Ask the floor manufacturer about recommended cleaning agents for the hardwood floor.

14. To remove water spots, use a steel wool no. 2 and just reapply wax on the area to restore its finish.

15. To remove mild cigarette burns, rub the floor with steel wool dampened by soapy water.

16. To eliminate dark spots such as ink stains, you can rub the floor with a steel wool no. 2 moistened by a recommended floor cleaner. If the spot is stubborn, you may sand it carefully with very fine sand paper. After removing the stain, reapply wax and polish the floor. For extremely stained floor, the area might have to be replaced.

17. To remove chewing or bubble gum, apply ice to the gum deposit until it hardens and becomes brittle enough to chip off. Dry the floor immediately. If there are stains left, clean with a recommended cleaning agent.

Hardwood floors are considered to be investments, not only can they increase the real estate value of a house, they can make homes quite cosy and nice to live in. Cleaning and maintaining hardwood floors do not really have to be complicated. With these steps in mind, you can easily keep your hardwood floor to last for the generations to come.

I would like some solid oak tongue and groove in my lounge on a concrete base.Could you advise me on the type of underlay

Solid wood flooring is not generally recommended to be "floated" onto underlay. It really needs to be "bonded" to the sub floor. Engineered wood floors are much more dimensionally stable so they won't expand and contract as much with changes in atmospheric moisture conditions.

However solid wood floors are more prone to movement and each board can expand and contract at different rates so we would suggest either Sika Acoubond underlay which has slots cut into it where a Sika flexible adhesive is gunned into it to bond the wood to the concrete.

The other alternatives are to glue the wood fully bonded with trowelled on adhesive or use an X-Pro tack underlay which is an underlay with a sticky top surface hidden beneath a top protective sheet. However there is a knack to using these and this is best left to an experienced fitter.

I am in the process of purchasing a flat, and need some sound advice regarding the wooden floors. I am led to believe these are laminate floors, the varnish has worn off in certain parts, leaving a scuffed dirty appearance. What is the most effective way to restore the laminate floor boards, other than replacing them entirely? Can these floors be sanded? And what products can be applied to remove the yellow/warm tone of the wood?

I need to clarify what you mean by laminate. A true laminate floor is a picture of wood underneath a plastic surface coating. I think you do not mean this but mean an Engineered wood floor. This is confusing because it is a real wood top layer that is "laminated" onto a base ply layer

If it is real wood, and is a varnish not oil, then you would need to sand back to bare wood, and then we would recommend an Osmo hard wax oil finish be applied.

However, you may need to consider a new floor, as someengineered boards have just a 0.5mm top layer or maybe 1 to 2mm - most of ours are 3, to 4 to 6mm so they can be sanded down easily.

I have a question about Corinthia golden distressed oak, Solid wood floor 125mm x 18mm x random length product- this looks very similar to our kitchen flooring. Basically we had a stain on the floor; used Vinegar to get it out and now the stain has gone but its left a white patch on the floor! What would you suggest cover this? I’m not sure which product is best; weather a stain or an oil or wax?

It depends on what the original flooring is, LAQ or oil or hardwax oil.

It is not at all easy to repair a lacquered floor. If it is oil then you would want to try and remove the white mark by cleaning and rubbing it or as last resort sanding it out and then re-apply a hard wax oil such as Osmo.

I have been looking at Corinthia Solid oak flooring and would like to know whether or not it is considered suitable for use in kitchen/utility areas?

Lots of people do put solid wood flooring in kitchen / utility areas and even bathrooms. However, it has to be advised that they would be "at risk" of movement due to expansion/contraction from excessive moisture. This could simply be gaps appearing between the boards, or they could lift or cup & curl in extreme cases.

Unless you feel you really have to have Solid wood flooring we would recommend going for an engineered board that has a real wood top layer.

Can you please tell me what I would need to order for installing wood flooring with underfloor heating? Will we need other products for laying the floor? We have a Victorian house with high skirting’s and decorative architraves between five doorways in the rooms where the floor will be laid

The two options are for solid wood, a full stick down with Sikabond adhesive which is flexible and designed to work with the Underfloor heating, or for Engineered using Sikabond or QuickTherm underlay.

We can provide a underlay spec and sample booklet if that would be helpful?

Ideally taking the skirting off and covering the expansion gap when putting them back looks best, but this can cause a mess as plaster may come off when they are removed.

The other alternative is to use scotia trim or a perimeter moulding, which is similar but sits flat in the expansion gap. Again we can send samples of these for you to see and the same goes for door bar mouldings. These can be wood to wood T bars or wood to carpet etc. as necessary.

Any further questions please let me know.

When laying 20mm solid wood walnut finish flooring do I leave a 5 - 7 or 8 mm gap around the edges for expansion and contraction or do I go right to the edge.

With a solid wood floor the risk of expansion/contraction is greater so you should really be looking to leave a gap of about 10 to 12mm. This is left empty, no cork strips etc. and then you cover this with 20mm+ skirting or scotia trim

This is the same at doorways where you cut into the architrave and use a door bar again with expansion allowed.

I am looking to lay some oak mosaic parquet tiles. The concrete subfloor is quite cold so I was thinking of laying the timbertech underlay you have down first onto the concrete before using flooring adhesive. Would this work or is it best just to lay the parquet tiles directly onto the concrete? I was thinking of using the silkabond adhesive, but would this work with the underlay?

The underlay is generally used with engineered floors and floated onto the sub floor.

Sikabond is a full stick down adhesive laid directly to the sub floor - they do a special system with underlay that has slots cut in it so that you can bead adhesive into the slots. However this is not usually used for small parquet or mosaic tiles. These are best fully bonded.

If you have enough floor height then it might be best to put some small battens down and thin plywood and use the Timbertech -or we have some other underlays suitable for insulation - that would run between the battens, and then stick the tiles to the plywood.

I have some very nice wood flooring in a house I have just purchased and am looking for some more so that I can take it through to an extension that I'm having built. It is veneer laminate of Oak on top of plywood - how can I match this up?

This flooring is sometimes called real wood engineered flooring - not to be confused with laminate flooring - which is a picture of wood beneath a plastic layer. Find the measurement of the width, length and top layer of oak and the finish, it may then be possible to match it - this is easier if you are able to send in a sample to us to match up.

How wide can you go with a solid oak flooring plank?

We don't like to go wider than around 200mm because above this width there is a risk of cupping and curling across the boards. For really wide boards we recommend a

solidengineered boardwith 15mm multiply with a 6mm single plank top layer - these boards have excellent dimensional stability.

How can I protect my floor from early finish wear?

We would recommend a regular cleaning routine, use of doormats or runners and floor protectors for furniture.

Please could you advise the situation regards using solid wood flooring over water fed under floor heating.What is the risk of shrinkage and warping and are there any particular timbers that would be more suitable for such applications?

Within the industry as whole, it is never recommended to use a solid wood floor over under floor heating. This is because the boards can expand and contract excessively due to the exposure of the heat and it is possible for individual boards to move and cause slight or major problems with the flooring.

We would always suggest a 21mm solidengineered floorboard as it has 6mm wear layer above the T&G and hence is similar to a solid floorboard with wear layer, however it has much better dimensional stability and so is ideally suited to under floor heating installations.

These can be installed with Sikabond adhesive or floated down with underlay designed for underfloor heating.

We have just converted the grenier floor of our property in France, which is built of stone and dates from the 1800's. The current wood floor is unsuitable for renovating so we would like to put down an oak floor on top of the current floor. There are extremes of temperature (last winter, before the conversion was completed, the temperature went down to -10 degrees). We have installed central heating with pipework running across the current floor. Can you foresee any problems with putting a "new" floor down on top of the old one? Can you suggest which type of wood flooring would be most suitable?

Without doubt the best floor would be an engineered floor and if budget allows a 21mm solidengineered floor with 6mm top layer and a multiply base. These have far greater dimensional stability and will not expand and contract as much as a solid floor and are also suitable for use with underfloor heating so would be ok with the heating pipes.

For an older property we would recommend the Osmo hardwax oil finish which is durable but also gives a natural finish rather than hiding the wood under a surface lacquer or varnish.

Do you have wood floors suitable for use with underfloor heating?

Yes - our 21mm engineered wood flooring is the most suitable because it has the best dimensional stability and won't expand and contract as much as other wood floors.

I would like to lay real wood flooring onto underfloor heating in a totally renovatedVictorian town house (trying to create a traditional yet modern look.) I have heard this can cause issues. Can you suggest what to use and send some sample and quote’s including P & P?

Yes, you are right; there are some specific considerations with underfloor heating. The key one is to go for an engineered board rather than solid wood, as these offer greater dimensional stability.

Is this a wet system embedded in concrete? If so it is very important that the concrete screed is not just dry to walk on but is in fact completely free of moisture or at least under 5%. This can only really be certain if a moisture meter is used to test it.

There are many options; oil brushed and oiled, unfinished or lacquered finish and different thickness of flooring to suit different budgets.Do you have a budget, thickness and finish in mind?

If you could give me this extra info I can probably narrow it down to one or two boards and I can send samples out to you.

I see that you do not like lacquer, personally I would agree with you and would recommend, oil, brush & oiled or unfinished in which case you would finish with Osmo hardwax oil after installation.

I have a question about Old terrain smoked & distressed, Engineered oak wood floor 189mm x 15mm x 1860mm product. Can this be fixed by secret nailing? Your catalogue suggests not but we are fixing to existing floorboards so we would normally lay a 3mm hardboard and then nail.

Yes, you could secret nail.It is a standard engineered board, although there is a slight risk of the central core splitting and of course you can get floor squeak if the boards move. I do appreciate that nailing is generally quicker and cheaper though. One suggestion as an extra "belt & braces" approach would be to use a small amount of Sikabond T2 in a bead, ideally onto 3mm ply rather than hardboard. This can be used on its own, one 310cc cartridge to a m2, but you could lay a bead down with a greater distance between the beads and use one cartridge to 3m2.

Is this a stock item? I would need about 50sqm in about two months’ time. What is your best price?

It is currently in stock but it is both unusual and popular so we would recommend purchasing as soon as you make the decision and we can keep it for you for a while until you are ready for it.

Price could vary in a couple of months’ time, so when you are ready please email me or call me direct on 01379 652613 and I will give you best price which will be a decent amount off the current œ39.95+VAT price

If you have any further questions then please just let me know.

Can I install a hardwood floor in my cellar?

Yes, but you must test the moisture first. Engineered flooring would be a more sensible option as is less susceptible to moisture.

I have a question about Corinthia oak brushed & UV oiled, Solid wood floor. I have a dog and wonder if oiled is suitable or should I use lacquered?

You are better off with the oiled floor rather than lacquered. It is true that a lacquered floor may be harder to scratch, but once scratched it is difficult to repair. You would need to lightly sand the entire floor to get a "key" and then re-lacquer.

With an oiled floor you can always locally repair and touch up with more oil.

Pet nails need to be as trimmed as short as possible as well. If you have the other problem - a dog that is not house trained - then this is a problem with either floor as the acid in dog urine will attack the floor protection, be it lacquer or oil.

How do I acclimatise my hardwood floor?

You should acclimatise your hardwood floor by leaving it in the room, or same atmosphere that it will be installed in, for 3-14 days depending on the product. Although the wood can remain in the packs, you may want to open the ends to help.

If I buy wood flooring, should it sit for a while in the room it is to be fitted in to acclimatise?

One week is standard for acclimatization; a few days would be OK if it is an engineered board, but solid needs a little longer.

How many times can you sand down a wood floor?

It depends on the thickness of the floor/top layer. Approximately 1mm is taken off each time a floor is sanded.We normally recommend sanding with a 120 grit.

What is the difference between laminate, solid hardwood and engineered hardwood floors?

A laminate floor is a picture of real wood protected by a durable layer of hard resin. Engineered floors have a top layer of real wood on top of a layered base. Solid wood flooring is made up entirely of one piece of solid hardwood.

I wish to glue down an engineered oak floor over water based underfloor heating

As I am laying it over a big area going through 3 separate rooms do I need to use caulking in the doorways or is the expansion gap around the edge going to be sufficient?

Sikabond T54 is the product that we would recommend forbonding the floor to the concrete, as this will allow even transfer of heat, but the concrete must be dry.

The entire perimeter of the room should have an expansion gap of 10-15mm and at the door frames and architrave this should be cut so the floor has room to expand underneath it. Then use a solid wood door threshold strip ramp or T bar across the door again with expansion allowance.